Swell em Teahupoo confirma previsões

!english version avaliable!

Manua Mosnter Tube By Fred Pompermayer www.theshot.com

Quarta-feira, 17 de março, será lembrada como o maior dia de surf, durante o St Patrick’s Day, em Teahupoo no Tahiti.

As previsões aconteceram e um sistema de baixa pressão gigante criou um enorme swell de 15-20 pés que se desenvolveu e atingiu o litoral da Nova Zelândia. Em seguida, esse swell intensificou-se no Pacífico e ganhou força e tamanho no caminho para Teahupo’o.

Todos os big rides estavam em Teahupo’o como a onda mais pesada e mais mortal do mundo. Isso é devido a combinação de mar aberto com grandes ondas que quebravam em um recife de coral muito raso. Isso faz com que a onda quebre abaixo do nível do mar e com muita força.

Momento difícil By Fred Pompermayer www.theshot.com

Quando Teahupoo fica grande a única forma de encarar é com a ajuda de embarcações na água (Jet Skis). Essa ajuda não é somente para entrar na onda mas também para salvar os surfistas dos wipeouts no recife.

Haviam alguns caras na remada, enquanto Raimana, Dorian, Walsh, Burle, Joyeaux, entre outros, esperavam nos jets. Eles queriam as maiores ondas.

Burle, Dorian, Walsh, Raimana, Conley, Koa Smith e outros big rides tahitianos viram e surraram algumas das maiores ondas já vistas em Teahupoo em anos.

Sam Hawke By Fred Pompermayer www.theshot.com

Um bom parceiro de tow in é crucial nessas ondas. Qualquer pequeno erro do piloto pode se transformar em um grande problema para o surfista. Esse não foi o caso do jovem Sam Hawke. Vestindo tanto verde quanto podia no St Patrick’s Day, o jovem Hawke, com apenas 18 anos de idade, foi puxado por seu parceiro, Doug Young, em direção à uma das maiores ondas do dia e de sua vida. Muitos disseram que foi a maior do dia.

Outro que pegou uma das maiores ondas do dia foi Manoa Drollet, que é lenda em Teahupoo. Mais tarde, Drollet foi amassado contra o coral e machucou a perna. “Foi um dos piores momentos da vida dele”, disse Raimana.

Burle By Fred Pompermayer www.theshot.com

O brasileiro Carlos Burle também botou pra dentro em algumas bombas e mostrou que tem muita experiência no pico tahitiano.

As ondas continuaram grandes e sólidas e todos estranhavam aquelas condições tão grandes em Teahuppo no mês de março. Realmente, eram condições raras de acontecer tão cedo … “Provavelmente, são os efeitos do El nino trazendo tanta atividade no Pacífico Sul”, disse Sean Collins.

Raimana By Fred Pompermayer www.theshot.com

Foi mais um capítulo especial desta temporada que está bombando. Como resultado, algumas ondas foram inscritas de última hora e devem esquentar ainda mais a disputa pelo XXL  Big Wave Awards.

Veja mais imagens no site Surfline.com

Confira o video deste dia épico clicando aqui.

!versão em português!

Tahitian huge swell, march 17th

Wednesday the 17th of March will be remembered as surfing’s greatest St Patrick’s Day ever. A giant low-pressure system, creating a massive 15-20ft swell that developed and battered the New Zealand coastline then intensified in the Pacific gaining strength and size on its way to Teahupo’o in Tahiti.

All surfers regard Teahupo’o as the heaviest and deadliest wave in the world. This is due to the combination of big open ocean swells breaking from extremely deep water onto very shallow coral reef. This causes the wave to break below sea level and with no back to the wave. When Teahupo’o gets big the only way to ride it is with the help of personal water craft (Jet Skis), not only to get into the wave but also to save any surfers that wipeout on the reef.

“I scored one of the most amazing barrel rides of my life only to be swallowed by the foam ball and dragged across the reef. I then had another five more waves on the head before finally being rescued by the jet ski. It was a very special day with many of the best big wave chargers from all around the world claiming to have ridden the best waves of their lives.” Doug recalls.

Having the right tow partner plays a crucial role in riding these waves; one small mistake by the driver can turn into a big mistake for the surfer. This was not however the case for Young and Hawke.

Sam Hawke Teahupoo

Wearing as much green as they could on St Patrick’s Day, it was the luck of the Irish when Young raced toward the largest set wave of the day and towed Hawke into the biggest, gangliest wave of his life. The wave of the day which everybody called the biggest ever ridden at Teahupo’o!

After getting washed into the lagoon Young pulled Hawke out of the water, struggling for breath, blood rushing out of his nose only to be greeted by a standing ovation from an all star cast of surfers including; Shane Dorian, Ian Walsh, Vatea David, Carlos Burle, Raimana Van Bastolaer and the rest of the local crews.

Hawke explains, “The who’s who were there.  Ten skis were out so we picked off small and medium ones and I was happy, we got good waves. We looked out and there was only one other ski out, Shane Dorian and Ian Walsh were waiting for the bomb, we started to laugh, threw the rope out.  They took the first wave we took the second and knew it was the bomb.

Doug screamed at me to go bro! As I looked at a dry patch of reef all I was thinking was that every muscle of my body was set to make the bottom of this wave”. Hawke made the drop and set his line, the wave had so much water on it sucking the reef dry on the inside eliminating the safety of the channel.

Both Surfers rides will now be amongst the top contenders for the Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards, a global competition rewarding the worlds best big wave surfers with a first prize purse of US$50,000. Hawke and Young’s rides will be entered in the ride of the year and monster tube categories.

Hawke also has entries in this year’s awards from his monster perfect 10 point ride as part of the Fantastic Noodles Intense Wave Invitational and Doug with his biggest paddle in wave award at the Australasian Oakley ASL Big Wave awards. The event-waiting period ended on 19th of March 2010, with this spectacular session in Tahiti set to dominate the podiums at the gala awards night in two weeks in Los Angeles.

Check the video here.

More at Surfline.com

Source:  Surfline.com and surfersvillage.com

<< rate / dê sua nota

 Loading ...

Articles . Exclusives . News