março 22nd, 2011

Morte e polêmica em Mavericks

Português

Sion: a última onda. Last wave.

Sion: a última onda. Last wave.

Após a quarta-feira trágica (16/03) que levou à morte o havaiano Sion Milosky em Mavericks, o assunto em relação a segurança no pico e diversas questões envolvendo o big surf voltaram a ser abordadas na mídia.

Pena que foi realmente preciso acontecer o pior para trazer o assunto à tona novamente. Muito já foi dito em relação à segurança e ao que pode e não pode em Mavericks. As autoridades recentemente tomaram algumas medidas proibindo embarcações no local e somente permitindo determinados tipos de embarcação dependendo do tamanho do mar. A proibição aconteceu sob justificativa de proteção ambiental pois o local é um santuário marinho da região. Certos ou errados, o fato é que a proibição coloca a segurança dos surfistas em risco. Certamente as autoridades devem reavaliar a situação. Uma pena que tenha que ser por conte de uma tragédia como essa.

Paramédicos lutam para salvar o surfista desacordado

Paramédicos lutam para salvar o surfista desacordado

Recentemente, como foi noticiado aqui no CB.com (veja a matéria), outro acidente em Mavericks quase levou a morte um jovem surfista. Felizmente, Jacob Trette, que chegou a ficar em coma induzido, está se recuperando bem segundo informado por funcionários do Hospital de Stanford.

Marevicks fica no norte da California e foi descoberto pelo lendário surfista Jeff Clark no final dos anos 90. Muitos big riders consideram o pico o mais perigoso do planeta. Esse título se deve a vários fatores como água congelante, clima adverso, correntes, ondas pesadas, e por aí vai.

Até os dias de hoje, dois surfistas, ambos havaianos, morreram em Mavericks. No entanto, existem milhares de histórias sinistras sobre Mavericks e diversos outros picos de ondas grandes do planeta.

Burle em Mavericks XXL 2002. Foto: Frank Quirarte.

Burle em Mavericks XXL 2002. Foto: Frank Quirarte.

Os big riders Carlos Burle e Eraldo Gueiros já protagonizaram muitos dessas histórias como o dia em que surfaram ondas acima dos 50 pés de tow-in quase que sozinhos no pico. Foi quando Burle surfou a onda histórica com tamanho estimado em 68 pés e venceu do XXL Big Wave Awards em 2002.

Burle's bomb Photo: Don Montgomery

Burle's bomb Photo: Don Montgomery

Ano passado, quando foi campeão mundial, Carlos Burle também foi protagonista de mais uma história aterrorizante em Mavericks quando surfou uma onda impressionante, tão grande e tão atrás do pico que ele não conseguiu dar sequência e levou o que ele mesmo descreve como o maior caldo da vida. Peguei pra mim a maior onda de todos os tempos. Meu irmão, eu tenho uma foto que você olha assim “como esse cara entrou na remada nessa onda?” “Fiz o que pude e ainda acelerei tudo buscando máxima velocidade… mas acho que os equipamentos do big surf na remada ainda não suportam condições tão extremas… Eu estava muito seguro no drop mas infelizmente não deu para continuar. Foi um caldo, uma porrada, algo que não deseja a ninguém… isso me fez pensar na vida, minha família e em tudo que já fiz até hoje. Achei que fosse morrer em frente aos meus amigos! Foi a maoir onda da minha vida! Por outro lado é muito gratificante estar aqui falando disso agora que está tudo bem. Fiz meu papel. Campeonato de ondas grandes é ir lá e pegar as maiores! As big as you can get, as deep as you can go. I’ll neve stay on the shoulder.” Desabafou o big rider Carlos Burle…

Surfe é um esporte perigoso e ondas grandes são ainda mais perigosas e exigem muito preparo físico e mental e os atletas precisam ter toda a segurança necessária para a prática desse esporte.

Faça uma doação para a família de Sion Milosky clicando aqui.

Abaixo, o vídeo com as últimas imagens de Sion Milosky divulgadas pelo site chasingmonsters.com. As imagens mostram Sion, Skindog e Nathan Fletcher na noite anterior preparando os equipamentos, além das ondas surfadas e a onda fatal na qual Sion se afogou.

English version

Death of Sion Milosky at Maverick’s renews safety talks: Big-wave surfers, filmmakers discuss volunteer water patrol

By Stephen Baxter – Santa Cruz Sentinel (http://www.mercurynews.com)

Sion's Last wave.

Sion

As news of Sion Milosky’s death at Maverick’s ripped through the surfing world Thursday, some big-wave surfers and photographers raised questions about the risks of surfing giant waves and the prospect of Jet Ski water patrols at Maverick’s to help prevent future tragedies.

Milosky, a 35-year-old originally from Kalaheo, Kauai, Hawaii, was known as one of the best big-wave riders in the world. He died late Wednesday after surfing “the session of a lifetime,” according to Chris Killen of Capitola, a surf filmmaker who captured Milosky’s last wave.

Ken “Skindog” Collins of Santa Cruz said Milosky dominated sessions at Maverick’s on Monday and Wednesday, and he surfed from the early afternoon to about 6:30 p.m.

“This swell was really huge. It was one of those swells that was really spread out. It was hard to see what was going on with everyone out there,” Collins said. “(Milosky) had this huge smile on his face and just turned around and paddled into this 50- to 60-foot wave. That was the last time I saw him. The wave just sent him straight to heaven.”

Killen was driving a Jet Ski in the channel when he filmed Milosky take off on his backhand on a wave face he also estimated at more than 50 feet.

“He was really deep and he makes the drop, and the end section comes and just explodes behind him as he straightens out,” Killen said.

Milosky went down. The wave crashed over him. Killen saw Milosky’s board “tombstone” straight up from the tension of his leash as he was driven deep under water.

“He was riding an 11-foot board, and I could see maybe 3 or 4 feet of the board out of the water,” Killen said.

The next wave broke directly on the board, and Killen said he tried several times to find Milosky.

Killen asked Kyle Buthman — another Santa Cruz filmmaker and the only other Jet Ski driver in the lineup at the time — if he had seen Milosky. He said, “no,” and about 15 or 20 frantic minutes later they spotted pro surfer Nathan Fletcher waving his arms near the harbor.

Fletcher found Milosky’s body, Killen said.

“I’m looking over just devastated,” Killen said. “His head’s flopping and I could tell he was blue from far away. But I still have a lot of hope because … he’s Sion.”

On shore Killen started chest compressions and asked a woman on the beach to call 911. At 6:51 p.m. the San Mateo County Sheriff’s Office received the call. Paramedics arrived and continued CPR.

LIVES LOST

Milosky’s death is not the first at Maverick’s.

Hawaiian surfer Mark Foo died there in 1994. Jacob Trette, a 30-year-old Orange County surfer, was knocked unconscious at Maverick’s in January and nearly died. A kayaker spotted him floating inside the break. He made it to the hospital in time and recovered.

Shawn Dollar, a Santa Cruz surfer who caught a wave after Milosky’s last Wednesday, said he and Killen want to raise money for a water patrol to be stationed at Maverick’s when it breaks. Photographers typically do double duty as lifeguards and shooters, and he said it is time for full-fledged support.

Brazilian surfer Carlos Burle is snatched from the frothy pit after loosing his surfboard in last year's Maverick's final. (Dan Coyro/Sentinel file )

Brazilian surfer Carlos Burle is snatched from the frothy pit after loosing his surfboard in last year's Maverick's final. (Dan Coyro/Sentinel file )

“We want to raise money to pay for, ideally, two to three Jet Skis in the water to create our own lifeguard crew out there,” Dollar said Thursday.

“I think it’s entirely necessary,” Killen said. “They have lifeguards at Capitola and there’s people spraining their ankles. At Maverick’s, you have professional athletes that are supporting their families, and they can’t fund that?”

The U.S. Coast Guard patrols the area, and roaming state parks lifeguards can provide assistance. The closest rescuers are at Pillar Point Harbor about a mile away. Assistant Harbormaster John Draper told the Sentinel last month that it can take longer than 10 minutes for staff members to suit up, board a Jet Ski and power over to Maverick’s.

At Pillar Point, only four of 10 staff members are certified in surf rescue, Draper said.

Photographers have driven Jet Skis at Maverick’s whenever it has been rideable and especially during big swells. However, non-government sanctioned Jet Skis are only legal there when the National Weather Service issues a high surf warning.

A lesser high surf advisory was in effect Wednesday, according to the weather service.

Shawn Alladio, who ran the water patrol at the 2010 Maverick’s Surf Contest, said she and others had been trying to work with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration to refine its rules on Jet Skis at Maverick’s and in the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.

She said Dollar and Killen’s idea could work — with a few caveats.

“To put together a water safety team that’s not a volunteer group — that’s an in-depth discussion,” Alladio said. “I’m all for it, but there has to be an effective plan in place. There has to be support from NOAA.”

Mary Jane Schramm, a NOAA spokeswoman, said Milosky’s death was a “real tragedy,” but she took a hard line against the ability of Jet Ski drivers to save surfers.

“Frankly from the reports, it sounds as though they lost track of the body for a full 20 minutes despite the fact there were two to three skis out there. So the presence of the Jet Skis was immaterial,” Schramm said.

Alladio — who trains water patrol Jet Ski teams around the world — said training would be key for any new water patrol at Maverick’s. Schramm said she talked to Alladio and others after a NOAA Sanctuary Advisory Committee meeting in Half Moon Bay in February about the ongoing Jet Ski controversy. Surfers who support Jet Skis should work with the San Mateo County Sheriff’s Office and have that office sanction volunteer rescuers, Schramm said.

NOT WITHOUT RISK

Milosky had only surfed at Maverick’s a handful of times. He had been staying at Collins’ Westside home since Sunday. They surfed Maverick’s on Monday and Wednesday, Collins said. He and Milosky drew a map of the break to build Milosky’s knowledge of it, since his first turn at Maverick’s came in November.

While he may have been new to Maverick’s, his reputation preceded him.

The father of two young daughters was named the North Shore Underground Surfer of the Year in February. Surfing Magazine declared that Milosky surfed the biggest paddle-in wave in history on a huge, outer-reef left on Oahu a few years ago.

Milosky’s father moved to Hawaii from Santa Cruz 40 years ago, Milosky said in a February video interview with Tracks magazine. His wife took the red-eye flight from Hawaii to California on Wednesday night, Collins said. She was at Maverick’s on Thursday.

Surfers said they understand the risks and are realistic about any rescuers’ limits.

“I fully accept that we’re taking huge risks and sometimes you don’t come up. At the end of the day you’re going out there by yourself and you’re responsible for yourself,” Dollar said. “You have to be able to deal with situations on your own.”

Maverick’s regulars said since Hawaiian pro Shane Dorian’s near-death experience at Maverick’s a day after the Maverick’s contest last year, many surfers have worn neoprene life vests under their wetsuits with air canisters to inflate them.

Collins and others in the Maverick’s lineup Wednesday — including Milosky, Dollar and Nic Lamb of Santa Cruz — wore the vests. However, Dollar said that during a violent wipeout in the evening, the air canister strapped to his chest blew off.

“That was my backup,” Dollar said.

How to Help

Volcom started an online fund to help Milosky’s family online at Volcom’s website. A memorial paddle-out is expected in Half Moon Bay and in Hawaii in the coming days.

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